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April 8, 2013 / samwilson60

To Twyfelfontein and the Skeleton Coast

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Via Finger Rock and the dolerite Organ Pipes (above), we headed from Outjo to Twyfelfontein to check out the 2,000-6,000-year-old rock engravings (dates clearly quite approximate!). We had a very interesting guided walk around the site and, although it would have been nicer to take a little longer, the guide timed Cat’s ability to withstand the sun impeccably.





We camped at the nearby Aba Huab campsite, which would have been great if we’d picked a pitch in the deserted half of the campsite, but even at the ‘busy’ end it was picturesque and very comfortable. And the birdlife was awesome!


From there we headed out to the most accessible part of the Skeleton Coast, in search of some respite from the intense inland heat. We got a free transit permit, which was a welcome surprise, and instead of a fog-enveloped expanse of nothingness, we found a landscape of stunning variations.



The gravel piste along the coast was even more brutal than elsewhere – brutal enough to puncture a tyre, but also to sand-blast all the encrusted dirt off the truck (no mean feat). Despite the tyre change and frequent photo stops, we made it out the other gate before it shut and started looking for somewhere to camp. Technically, we were still in the national park and so had to use an official campsite, but these were few and far between, and much less appealing than a sneaky wild camp on the outskirts of the park.


Our first stop the next morning was the Cape Cross seal reserve, or rather the attached lodge (can’t overdose on malaria pills on an empty stomach!). Even from the lodge we could see a few seals bobbing around in the surf, but this in no way prepared us for the sight (or smell) of the main ‘colony’.




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After walking among the seals for as long as we could handle the stench, we headed on to Henties Bay to stock up on money, food and fuel, in the hope that we could then stay wild for at least one more night before the sand dunes of Sossusvlei.



Leave a Comment
  1. Peter Cullen / Apr 8 2013 4:43 pm

    Again, some great images.


  2. leelee / Apr 8 2013 8:51 pm

    those rock paintings look just like your wildlife window! i hope one day, future archeologists can be slightly more precise at dating those though…

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